Hair dyes through the ages

Hair dyes have come a long way in the past half-century. From the iconic platinum blonde of legends like Jean Harlow in the 1930s and Marilyn Monroe in the 1950s, to the wave of celebrity-led ads in the 70s and 80s that made box hair dye a household norm, the early era saw generations of people experimenting with impulsive hair transformations. Pharmacy aisles became the mother lode of hair-colouring products, with scores of choices for those seeking a subtle colour change or something bolder to emulate favourite musicians such as David Bowie and Cyndi Lauper.

Since then, the market has evolved significantly, catering for everything from a fleeting weekend transformation to a long-term makeover. Today’s celebrities like Billie Eilish, Megan Fox and K-pop idols such as Itzy’s Ryujin and BTS’ V have embraced the power of frequent hair colour changes as a signature of their individuality and willingness to push boundaries. From the popular ombré to 90s lowlights, from fiery copper tones to avant-garde greens and blues, the options for self-expression through hair colour are almost boundless.

Key factors to consider

Before taking the plunge with a new hue, a little forethought is in order. “Lifestyle and maintenance should be the main considerations when it comes to choosing the right colour service,” says Joanna Gonzalez, senior colour specialist at Butterfly Studio Salon in New York. “For example, how much upkeep is a client willing to do for their colour? Do they plan on growing this colour out, or will they be changing it regularly?” You should consider your hair history with chemicals and box dyes, she says, before choosing to add another stressor, such as bleach.

The final decision often comes down to three key factors: choosing the right shade, being aware of your hair type and using the appropriate type of dye. There are three primary dye categories: permanent, semi-permanent and demi-permanent, each with its own advantages and considerations.

Protecting and nourishing your hair

Los Angeles-based expert colourist and stylist Jes Jewel says today there are many ways to protect and nourish your hair to minimise the damaging side effects of dyeing. “Ingredient decks and hair products have come so far in efficacy and understanding the current nuanced hair needs of today,” she explains, highlighting heat protectants and repairing treatments as must-haves.

Additionally, measures like choosing hair dyes with conditioning agents, limiting heat styling, always using thermal heat protectants, and moisturising shampoos and conditioners can help keep damage to a minimum.

The importance of professional consultation

“People often think the photos on the outside of the box dye boxes are accurate, but the same box dye colour can look very different on different people”. That’s why she recommends consulting a colour professional before jumping the gun. “If you’re going to try at-home box dyes, a general rule is to stay away from dark colours, especially black,” she continues.

At the end of the day, whether you choose a natural shade or an electrifying fantasy hue, make informed choices backed by an understanding of your hair type and skin tone, and be sure you’re doing it for the right reasons. “A mistake I’ve seen clients make over and over again is making emotional decisions,” Gonzalez notes. “This is when someone is going through a rough break-up and decides to drastically change their hair colour. Some lifelong blondes go jet black overnight, or brunettes go bright red.